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Mrauk U was the capital of the kingdom of Arakan (Rakhine State) for over 300 years. Compared to Venice, Amsterdam and Lisbon in its heyday in the 17th century, Mrauk U is today a provincial town with dozens of pagodas and temples that recall its great past. The opening of Myanmar, after 2011, generated international interest for hitherto little-known archaeological and historical sites in Myanmar. Yet, the ongoing Rakhine State crisis that mixes inter-ethnic conflict, state-ethnic conflict, humanitarian and rights issues, has largely prevented the development of tourism in Myanmar’s western region.

Against a background of contemporary challenges, this lecture focuses on the complexity of Mrauk U’s past between Mughal India and the Burmese kingdoms. Its position at the cultural frontier between South and Southeast Asia, and its maritime context within the Bay of Bengal, invite comparisons with other Buddhist kingdoms in Southeast Asia where land and sea were associated in complex ways. The preparation of Mrauk U’s candidacy for UNESCO World Heritage status has stimulated new research, resulting in renewed understanding of the city’s urban planning, including important hydrological and defensive works. The presentation will highlight the current state of academic knowledge and introduce the original character of Rakhine civilisation.