Research & Article

Historic urban communities in the major towns across Thailand are facing rapid demolition as a result of urban development. According to a report of the National Housing Authority of Thailand, there are 140 historic urban communities, which can be classifi ed into fi ve categories: floating houses, waterfront houses, shop houses, urban villages and market communities. Comprised of simple wood structures, these homes and shop houses of humble architectural craftsmanship represent unique patterns of early urban settlement, knowledge of light wood frame structure, and the livelihood and culture of the Chao Phraya River Valley. And yet, the cultural landscape of these urban clusters of wooden houses does not fi gure in the offi cial Thai conception of architectural heritage, which focuses on Buddhist and royally-related structures. In this article, I focus on three river-based communities in the area of the Old Chao Phraya River Oxbow in Thonburi. These three communities are: Khlong Bangkok Noi to the north, Chakphra in the middle, and Bangluang or Bangkok Yai at the south.

This area was selected in part because of its unique historical relationship with the Rattanakosin Island Historic District. The residents of this area are the descendants of low-ranking bureaucrats who served the ruling classes in the capital city of Bangkok. It is also well known as the birthplace of the popular female protagonist “Mae Ploy” in the Thai classic novel, Four Reigns, or Si Phaendin. This research will highlight this area’s historic signifi cance, the major problems causing its decline, and the struggle by its canalcommunities to preserve the local identity of their urban settlements. My aim is to show that the Thai state’s offi cial heritage discourse neglects not only the vernacular architecture, but also the histories of farmers, merchants and bureaucrats who established these river-based urban settlements on the periphery of the royal capital. I will argue that restoration and planning efforts must focus not only on conserving the physical fabric of vernacular architecture, but also on documenting and revitalizing the intangible culture and local histories of its residents.