The Chakri kings used royal temples to project power and legitimacy in three ways: legitimising a new dynasty, purifying Buddhism and showcasing modernity to counter Western colonisation. This study trip will focus on three royal temples in the heart of Rattanakosin Island that illustrate these points.

Wat Suthat Thepwararam Ratchaworamahawihan: Founded by Rama I in 1807, when he had the colossal bronze Buddha image brought from Sukhothai to be erected at the temple. This act physically moved the “soul” of the Sukhothai kingdom to Bangkok, symbolising the new dynasty as the rightful heir to previous glories. Rama II continued the construction and decoration of the viharn. The entire complex was finished in 1847 during the reign of Rama III, with mural paintings that continued in the classic late Ayutthaya style.

Wat Ratchapradit Sathit Maha Simaram: Founded in 1864 by Rama IV as the centre of the Dhammayut sect, established by himself when he served as a monk for 27 years before becoming king. This was a reformist movement that sought stricter monastic discipline. The walls of the principal building and the chedi are of sombre grey marble tiles. Mural paintings reflect Western influence in perspective and shading, as well as the use of Western fashion and architecture.

Wat Ratchabophit Sathitmahasimaram Ratchaworawihan: Built by Rama V in 1869, one year after his coronation at the age of 15. The most striking feature of this wat is its unique layout: a circular courtyard covered in benjarong tiles joins the viharn and ubosot, with a gilded chedi at the centre. While the exterior appears traditionally Thai, the interior of the ubosot is Gothic – complete with pointed arches, buttresses and Italian–inspired ornamentation. Ratchabophit was founded during a period when the British and the French were absorbing Siam’s neighbours. This was a direct statement to the Western powers that Siam was modern, “civilised” and sovereign – not a backward nation to be colonised.

We shall also visit a second temple, Wat Sommanat Ratchaworawihan, founded by Rama IV in 1853 as a memorial to his Queen Consort Somanass. The walls of this temple’s viharn are completely covered with mural paintings retelling the story of Inao (Panji tales), a favourite of the Queen. Originally from East Java, the tale is celebrated throughout Southeast Asia as an epic of love, betrayal, adventure and reunion.