Si Satchanalai – Chaliang Historical Park*

During the 13^th century, the Sukhothai Kingdom consolidated its power in the Central Plains by building a number of satellite cities. One of these important cities was Si Satchanalai. Today, its ruins lie on the right bank of the Yom River, located in the south of modern Si Satchanalai and is one of the best examples of a Thai city-state. It was laid out along fixed cosmological line-temple complexes at its heart, surrounded by city walls, rivers, and forest. It is considered by many historians to be the apogee of Thai city planning. The main temple at the heart of this moated city is Wat Chang Lom with a huge bell-shaped Sri Lankan-style main chedi. Built during the reign of King Ramkamhaeng, this monument is thought to be one of the early Sri Lankan-style chedis of the Sukhothai Kingdom. The style was later copied throughout Si Satchanalai, Sukhothai and Ayutthaya.

*Si Satchanalai – Chaliang were declared a World Heritage Site number 574 on 12 December 1991.

The ruins of Si Satchanalai are not as grandiose as those of Sukhothai but are in some ways more interesting. They have not been extensively restored, and fewer tourists have visited the site. The ruins evoke the impression of a once powerful city. Despite not being the seat of government of the Sukhothai Kingdom, it was the city of the deputy king and a commercial centre which was renowned all over Southeast Asia and China. Beyond the city walls, further west on a mountain outside the city, is a ruined mountain reachable by a shady path. At the top of the path is a large Sri Lankan-style chedi and there are over 30 ruins located outside the city walls.

The nearby ruins of Chaliang are thought to be the earlier Khmer settlements and outposts of the empire dating back to the time of King Jayavarman VII (1181-1220). Architectural and archaeological remains found in this historic town clearly indicate that it was not only a politically important town, but also an important religious centre. A large number of religious buildings, constructed from laterite and decorated with stucco, are considered high artistic achievements of the ancient Thai people. Wat Khok Singkharam is located about 1 kilometre southeast of Si Satchanalai city. The major historic structures in this temple include the main Sri Lankan-style chedi, a rectangular vihara, an uposatha, and 4 subordinate chedis built from blocks of laterite. “Phongsawadan Nua” or the historic chronicle of Northern Thailand mentioned Wat Khok Singkharam as the temple located at the centre of the town where Brahmans, high-positioned Buddhist cardinals, high-positioned monks, 500 enlightened monks and other monks were invited to meet one another.

Archaeological excavations have also yielded much evidence that the area of Chaliang was first occupied during the 3^rd – 4^th century AD. Human habitation in this area continued up to at least the 6^th – 7^th century. Around the 11^th century, large brick buildings started to appear in this area. Finally, a Sukhothai period temple was built.

The group of glazed ceramic kilns were discovered along the bank of the Yom River, about 4 – 5 kilometres from Si Satchanalai city. About 200 kilns were found in the area, measuring about 1.5 square kilometres. Two groups of kilns have been excavated and the area has been developed into site museums.

Uttaradit Province

The centre of the city was built on the right bank of the Nan River in the middle of a broad plain encircled by a chain of mountains that can be seen in the distance. Uttaradit province has improved its agricultural output as a result of the construction of the Sirikit Dam. The dam is 160 metres high and 800 metres wide and the lake behind it covers 22,000 hectares. This vast expanse of water provides electricity for the region and it is a source of fish for the people living near its banks. Uttaradit province is still regarded as a forest region with orchards, waterfalls, and a chain of mountains. There are many historical sites, homes of Northern Thai textile productions, many very beautiful woodcarving masterpieces, and many interesting old temple architectures.

This coming November, join us on a weekend trip from Friday, 24 to Sunday, 26 November to explore various cultural heritage sites and cultural wisdom in upper central plains Thailand with Khun Euayporn Kerchouay, Senior Consultant of The Siam Society.