Missionaries, Diplomats and Teak-Wallahs: The Built Heritage of Chiang Mai, 1867 – 1941

Jun 16, 2025

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Missionaries, Diplomats and Teak-Wallahs: The Built Heritage of Chiang Mai, 1867 – 1941

In 1867, American Presbyterian missionaries established a Western presence in Chiang Mai. Soon they were joined by British diplomats and representatives of forestry companies (the so-called “teak-wallahs”). In the book Enchanted Land (River Books 2023), Graham Jefcoate drew upon the “considerable written legacy” of westerners in Chiang Mai and the north of Siam up until the Second World War, but the missionaries, diplomats and teak-wallahs also left a considerable legacy in terms of built heritage.

The Siam Society, under the leadership of Mr Graham Jefcoate, are pleased to invite you to explore the locations associated with the Western presence and its “colonial” architecture in Chiang Mai province from 29 to 30 November 2025.

When

Saturday, 29 to Sunday, 30 November 2025

Leader

with Mr Graham Jefcoate

Member of The Siam Society and Writer/Lecturer

Booking

See information below

Or contact Khun Thun

studytrips@thesiamsociety.org

 

The tentative programme will be as follows:

Saturday, 29 November 2025: Bangkok – Chiang Mai
– Meet at Don Mueang International Airport, AirAsia check-in counter.
06:40 Depart Bangkok to Chiang Mai by AirAsia flight FD3437.
07:55 Arrive at Chiang Mai International Airport.
Morning: Coffee and introduction at the École française d’Extrême-Orient (former French Consulate compound). The consulate building was originally erected in 1918, but was later demolished. The present buildings comprise a historic teak house moved to Chiang Mai from another location and a modern office and library building (2011). On the opposite side of the Charoen Prathet Road is the former French Consul’s house, long the residence of Camille Notton, diplomat and scholar, who was a member of the Siam Society. It is now the Alliance Française de Chiang Mai.
– Visit Anantara Chiang Mai Resort (the former British Consulate compound). Although the office (1921) has been demolished, the Consul’s House (built largely in teak, 1915) survives and is currently in use as the hotel’s bar/restaurant.  For many years (until 1930), this was the home of the diplomat and writer W. A. R. Wood.
Noon Lunch at 137 Pillars Resort.
Afternoon: Visit 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai (the former Borneo Company Limited compound) and the new museum. The surviving teak building (1880s), which serves as the hotel’s bar/restaurant, is one of the oldest heritage buildings preserved in Chiang Mai. It is associated with the “teak-wallahs” Louis Leonowens, David Fleming Macfie and William Bain. Under the historic building, there is a small museum relating to the company and the site.
– Visit the compound of The Prince Royal’s College, named by King Vajiravudh on his visit to Chiang Mai as Crown Prince in 1906, which contains a number of well-preserved historic buildings, including the Kennedy Dormitory (1915) and the chapel (1930). It is the former boys’ school of the American Presbyterian Mission in Chiang Mai.
Evening: Dinner at Kiti Panit restaurant, a historic department store (1920s).
  Overnight at Moose Hotel Nimman, Chiang Mai.
   
Sunday, 30 November 2025: Chiang Mai – Bangkok
– Breakfast at the hotel.
Morning: Visit McCormick Hospital and the former Superintendent’s House (1926). The hospital was opened in 1925 by the American Presbyterian Mission in Chiang Mai. The Superintendent’s House was built in 1926 and is associated with Dr E. C. Cort, who lived there with his wife Mabel, and with HRH Prince Mahidol, who stayed there while serving as an intern at McCormick Hospital.
– Visit the Foreign Cemetery, opened in 1898, which contains a number of interesting memorials as well as the statue of Queen Victoria (1903), formerly placed in front of the British Consulate.
Noon: Lunch at The Consul’s Garden.
Afternoon: Visit McKean Senior Centre (the former Leper Asylum), which has a rich architectural legacy.  Dr James W. McKean founded Chiang Mai’s celebrated Leper Asylum in 1908. The compound preserves a number of historic buildings, including the former Thaw Chapel (1925) and the McClanahan Memorial Community House (1930).
– Visit McClanahan Café, a former Mission dispensary (1931).
– Proceed to Chiang Mai International Airport.
19:20 Depart Chiang Mai for Bangkok by AirAsia flight FD3430.
20:45 Arrive at Don Mueang International Airport.
   
The Siam Society reserves the right to change the programme as necessary.

Important notes:

– The Siam Society may utilise photos taken from study trips, lectures, performances, and other activities as part of its public relations and marketing campaign. These photos, which may sometimes contain image(s) of activity participants, can also be featured on The Society’s website and other online social media channels.

– As part of our effort to address the issue of global warming, The Siam Society strongly supports the reduction of plastic waste. We kindly recommend bringing your own water flask during the trip, if possible.

-Booking:

Contribution of THB 23,000 (THB 25,000 for non-members). Single room surcharge of THB 1,800. The contribution will cover air ticket, transportation, meals as mentioned in the programme, accommodation, gratuities, insurance and other costs incurred to make this trip possible. A photocopy of the identification page on your passport must accompany the booking. Your reservation will be confirmed as soon as the deposit has been made. There is a 4% surcharge for credit/debit card payments to cover bank charges. Please pay by cash or cheque payable to “The Siam Society Under Royal Patronage”. Transfer can also be made to The Siam Society travel account at TMBThanachart Bank (ttb), saving account no. 053-2-18000-7, swift code: TMBKTHBK or by scanning the QR code on your right. Once payment has been made, please email the deposit or transfer the docket to us.

Inclusions:

  • The contribution includes accommodation (sharing basis), air ticket, meals as mentioned in the programme, transfer and sightseeing cars, entrance fees, gratuities and other costs incurred to make this trip possible.
  • Basic travel insurance, which will only cover participants travelling from and back to Thailand.

Exclusions:                                                                                                                                          

  • Visa fees (if any), personal expenses, personal food and beverage consumption, etc.

 

 

Tourist Visa Policy

ASEAN, Switzerland, Japan, and Singapore passport holders are allowed to enter the Lao PDR without a visa requirement for a maximum stay of 14 to 30 days, depending on nationality.

Nationals of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, France, New Zealand, and Australia are required to obtain a visa to enter Laos. For a smooth and convenient crossing Thai–Lao border, we kindly request that you obtain an eVisa before the departure date. Please note that applying for a Visa On Arrival may take additional time and could delay the group. An eVisa can be easily completed online from the comfort of your home, with the visa fee approximately USD 50, depending on nationality.

For more details and to apply eVisa, please visit: https://laoevisa.gov.la/apply

Cancellation charges:

76 days before the start of the trip (before Fri, 31 Oct): Deposit forfeited
75 – 61 days before the start of the trip (Sat, 1 to Sat, 15 Nov): 50% of the tour cost
Less than 60 days or cancellation without notice (Sun, 16 Nov onwards): No refund

 

*The cancellation charges will also depend on the date we pay the deposit to our travel agent. If we have to pay the deposit to the travel agent before the 60-day period prior to the start of the trip, our officer will send an email to inform every participant before we make the payment, as only a partial amount of the deposit can be refunded after that point.

For further information and bookings, please contact Khun Thun at 02-661-6470-3 ext 205, or studytrips@thesiamsociety.org.The Society’s office is open from 09:00 to 17:00, Tuesday to Saturday.

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