Culinary Routes of Roots in the Rotational Fields of Ban Huai Hin Lad Nai, Chiang Rai Province
Amidst the lush mountains and forests of northern Thailand lies Ban Huai Hin Lad Nai, a community of the Pgak’yau (ปกาเกอะญอ) ethnic group whose way of life is deeply rooted in harmony between people and nature, culture and environment. Situated in Ban Pong Subdistrict, Wiang Pa Pao District, Chiang Rai Province, the village was declared Thailand’s first “protected ethnic way of life area” by a 2010 Cabinet Resolution.
Rather than practising monoculture, the community relies primarily on bamboo shoots, forest tea, and wild honey for its livelihood. Rotational farming is still practised for household consumption, sustaining an intricate body of knowledge about the land, water, forests, seeds, ecosystems, and seasonal rituals. These traditions are not only passed down but lived daily, forming an identity interwoven with the rhythms of nature. This is not merely farming—it is a holistic way of living where humans, plants, and other beings coexist in an ecological system in which people are only one part of the whole.
On this journey, participants will have the opportunity to immerse themselves in the Pgak’yau way of sustainable co-existence with nature. Suitable for those who are physically fit and passionate about trekking, the program begins with a short forest walk on the first day to gather leaves from wild tea trees growing among diverse flora. Participants will then learn how to process, brew, and taste the tea. On the second day, a longer trek leads to the rotational fields, where one can hear the philosophy behind rotational farming, witness the biodiversity of the cultivated forest, and help collect produce from both field and forest. The day ends with a collaborative cooking session, creating a special dinner menu together with local chefs using foraged ingredients and traditional dishes.
Participants will also visit sites impacted by the flash flood of September 2024, exploring local experiences of recovery, resilience, and disaster preparedness. The journey concludes with a conversation with community elders and youth on the preservation and evolution of indigenous knowledge—discussing dreams, challenges, and how their way of life may be passed on to future generations.
This learning journey will be led by Asst Prof Dr Suwichan (Chi) Phattanaphraiwan, a Pgak’yau scholar from the School of Liberal Arts, Mae Fah Luang University. Deeply committed to the conservation of eco-cultural heritage and sustainable development, Dr Suwichan is also a poet, songwriter, and traditional musician (te-naku). He plays a key role in the Karen Network for Culture and Environment, serves as Vice President of the Foundation for Culture and Environment in Southeast Asia (FCESA), and was recently involved in founding the Karen Environmental Museum in Tak Province.
When
Leader
with Assistant Professor Dr Suwichan Phatthanapraiwan
School of Liberal Arts, Mae Fah Luang University
Booking
The tentative programme will be as follows:
Day 1: Friday, 17 October: Bangkok – Chiang Mai – Chiang Rai (Baan Huai Hin Lad Nai) | |
– | Meet at Don Mueang International Airport, AirAsia boarding gate. |
08:25 | Depart Bangkok for Chiang Mai by AirAsia flight FD8435. |
09:40 | Arrive at Chiang Mai International Airport and proceed to Baan Huai Hin Lad Nai in Wiang Pa Pao District by van. |
– | Arrive at the Huai Hin Lad Nai community. Meet the village headman and the youth team who will accompany and guide participants throughout the programme. Receive a welcome gift as a symbolic gesture of becoming part of the same family. |
Noon: | Lunch at the Huai Hin Lad Nai community. |
Afternoon: | Get to know the Huai Hin Lad Nai community by visiting Pgak’yau’s houses. |
– | Take a short and easy forest walk (1.5 hrs). Collect tea leaves along the trail and enjoy the natural surroundings. |
– | Participate in a tea workshop to learn about the tea preparation process, including kneading, brewing, and tasting. The workshop also includes making khao pook, a traditional Karen-style sweet rice cake filled with sesame. |
– | Take a short break, tea and traditional sweet rice cake will be served. |
– | Then, join in designing and cooking dinner using forest ingredients, such as tea leaves or other foraged produce. |
18:00 | Dinner at the Huai Hin Lad Nai community. |
Evening: | Depart the community for the resort. (approximately 40 mins) |
Overnight at Ploen Na Ploen Na Resort | |
Day 2: Saturday, 18 October: Chiang Rai (Baan Huai Hin Lad Nai) | |
– | Breakfast at the resort |
Morning: | Depart the resort for the Huai Hin Lad Nai community by van. |
– | Upon arrival at the community, start a 4-kilometre forest hike to the rotational farming area. Along the trail, learn about forest stewardship, firebreak creation, and how beekeeping contributes to forest ecosystem preservation. |
Noon: | Lunch at a scenic spot in the rotational farm area (packed lunch). |
Afternoon: | Continue walking down to the community area. |
– | Take a short break with a light refreshment before starting to walk to Huai Hin Lad Nai stream (30 min.), which is the site of a past natural disaster. |
– | Join a forest-to-table activity where participants can design and prepare a meal using wild and seasonal ingredients collected from the forest and the rotational farm. |
18:00 | Dinner at the Huai Hin Lad Nai community. |
Evening: | Depart the community for the resort. (approximately 40 mins) |
Overnight at Ploen Na Ploen Na Resort | |
Day 3: Sunday, 19 October: Chiang Rai (Baan Huai Hin Lad Nai) – Chiang Mai – Bangkok | |
– | Breakfast at the resort |
Morning: | Depart the resort for the Huai Hin Lad Nai community by van. |
– | Upon arrival at the community. Join a community dialogue circle, which is an open discussion and Q&A session, with elders and youth. |
– | A farewell blessing ceremony, including a performance of Karen poems by community elders and a song by Ajarn Suwichan. |
Noon: | Lunch at the Huai Hin Lad Nai community. |
Afternoon: | Depart the community for Wiang Kalong Subdistrict. |
– | Visit Wiang Kalong Ceramics Artisan House. |
– | Continue to Chiang Mai International Airport. |
18:35 | Depart Chiang Mai for Bangkok by AirAsia flight FD3442. |
19:45 | Arrive at Don Mueang Airport. |
The Siam Society reserves the right to change the programme as necessary. |
Important notes:
– Our programme features a nature trek (2 – 4 hours) through forested and occasionally steep terrain. We recommend that participants be in good health and reasonably fit to fully enjoy the experience.
– We warmly invite you to experience life within the Huai Hin Lad Nai community. During your stay, you can enjoy Karen folktales before bedtime and join the early-morning almsgiving with local residents. If you would like to join this special experience, please read the “Guidelines for Staying in a Pgak’yau Household” (page 5 onwards) and let us know when you make your booking.
– Once you have confirmed your accommodation choice, changes cannot be made later, as all arrangements must be made in advance.
– The Siam Society may utilise photos taken from study trips, lectures, performances, and other activities as part of its public relations and marketing campaign. These photos, which may sometimes contain image(s) of activity participants, can also be featured on The Society’s website and other online social media channels.
– As part of our effort to address the issue of global warming, The Siam Society strongly supports the reduction of plastic waste. We kindly recommend bringing your own water flask during the trip, if possible.
Booking:
Contribution of THB 24,800 (THB 26,800 for non-members). Single room surcharge of THB 3,850. For those who will stay in a Pgak’yau Household, the contribution will be THB 21,550 (THB 23,550 for non-members) with no single room surcharge. The contribution will cover air ticket, transportation, meals as mentioned in the programme, accommodation, gratuities, insurance and other costs incurred to make this trip possible. A photocopy of the identification page on your passport must accompany the booking. Your reservation will be confirmed as soon as the deposit has been made. There is a 4% surcharge for credit/debit card payments to cover bank charges. Please pay by cash or cheque payable to “The Siam Society Under Royal Patronage”. Transfer can also be made to The Siam Society travel account at TMBThanachart Bank (ttb), saving account no. 053-2-18000-7, swift code: TMBKTHBK or by scanning the QR code on your right. Once payment has been made, please email the deposit or transfer the docket to us.
For further information and bookings, please contact Khun Thun at 02-661-6470-3 ext 205, or studytrips@thesiamsociety.org. The Society’s office is open from 09:00 to 17:00, Tuesday to Saturday.
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